Damn Beaver Dams

Damn Beaver Dams

The Circuito Dientes de Navarino is a hiking route that allows you to roam for five days through the deepest wilderness in southern Tierra del Fuego. The starting point, Puerto Williams, is the southernmost settlement on earth, after which there are only mountains, lakes and …

Colonial Gem

Colonial Gem

Traveling through Latin American countries is especially appealing to me because of the colonial-style architecture that can be admired everywhere. The cities shaped by the Spanish and Portuguese, with their magnificent facades, secluded patios, spacious squares and beautiful churches are enchanting to me. This joy …

The magical Forest

The magical Forest

Hiking from Cochamó, a small Chilean town located by a long fjord in northern Patagonia, up into the mountains to the Argentine border, takes five full days. The path leads almost continuously through an ancient fairy-tale forest, where practically no one is on the move. …

Chatting in Portunhol

Chatting in Portunhol

Every trip to Brazil was a special kind of social experience for me. Although I speak only a few words of Portuguese, and many Brazilians only a little English or Spanish, I found it easy to strike up conversations with the locals everywhere, whether by …

Ephemeral beauty

Ephemeral beauty

A four-day trek around the Huemul Massif in Los Glaciares National Park in southern Argentina brings experienced hikers right to the edge of the southern ice field. This huge mass of glaciers, once part of the glacial Patagonian Ice Sheet, now forms the largest continuous …

Sour fish

Sour fish

When I traveled through Peru for the first time fifteen years ago, I got gastroenteritis after having a freshly squeezed fruit juice at the market right at the beginning of the trip. After that, I didn’t think for a moment about trying one of the …

Chilean Rodeo

Chilean Rodeo

In the Chilean village of Villa O’Higgins, located at the end of the Carretera Austral in Patagonia, there is no post office, no ATM, and virtually no cultural offerings. Those who land here as tourists either go hiking in the picture-perfect surroundings or recuperate from …

A City for the Wealthy

A City for the Wealthy

In 1960, Brazil’s capital was moved from Rio de Janeiro to Brasília, a city that was one hundred percent built from scratch and was supposed to be a model of socially just urban planning. When I visited my Spanish friend Raquel, whose apartment was located …