Pure Argentina

Pure Argentina

It was the first almost-seven-thousander I had seen in my life. Cerro Aconcagua is the highest mountain on earth outside of Asia, and I thought it kind of showed. As I approached the gigantic mountain massif, I heard from various travelers that the landscape had …

Crossing Bridges

Crossing Bridges

It is sometimes good to cross a shaky bridge. First, there is the thrill and a multitude of questions that arise: So do I dare, or not? Will the cables hold me if the planks snap? What could happen if I fall off and how …

Ephemeral beauty

Ephemeral beauty

A four-day trek around the Huemul Massif in Los Glaciares National Park in southern Argentina brings experienced hikers right to the edge of the southern ice field. This huge mass of glaciers, once part of the glacial Patagonian Ice Sheet, now forms the largest continuous …

Entertaining City

Entertaining City

A walk through the streets of Buenos Aires can hardly be boring. The city is teeming with creative street artists from all over the world and excellent tango dancers showing off their talent for free. When I met these two artists on Calle Defensa in San Telmo, I …

In Company with Fitz Roy

In Company with Fitz Roy

After hitchhiking down 1350km along Carretera Austral through Chilean Patagonia, there was not a road from the small village of Villa o’Higgins leading further south into the country. The Campo de Hielo Sur, a huge expanse of glacial ice, made it impossible to continue by …

Lonely Patagonia

Lonely Patagonia

All morning I had hiked alone through Los Alerces National Park and had not encountered a single person there. Then, as I ate my empanadas at noon at Lago Menéndez, I felt an intense loneliness. In my melancholy mood, I gazed boldly at the majestic …

The Live City

The Live City

From the roof terrace of my hotel, Buenos Aires looked unfriendly and cold. I had been in this huge, anonymous city for three days and suddenly felt very lonely after a few weeks of traveling through Patagonia. One evening a light came on in the …