Sleeping Volcano

Sleeping Volcano

Before my recent trip through Central America, I read all over the Internet that one should not under any circumstances travel through Nicaragua. The year before, hundreds of people had been killed in demonstrations against the policies of President Ortega, and the protest mood in …

The City of Eternal Spring

The City of Eternal Spring

Throughout Mexico in many areas it is already so hot by late spring that one would prefer to laze around all day. The situation is different in the central highlands, where the climate is pleasant year-round. In the colonial city of Guanajuato, located at an …

Cuddly Bear

Cuddly Bear

Lured by a little leftover lunch or something interesting to snack on, the coatis of Panama and Costa Rica can suddenly come very close to you, with their dachshund snout and their long tail stretched vertically into the air. In the town of David, at …

Fuego at Night

Fuego at Night

The Fuego volcano near the Guatemalan city of Antigua is one of the most active in Central America. Its last major eruption in June 2018 killed 114 people. When I climbed the twin volcano Acatenango in spring 2019, Fuego was erupting every ten minutes, manifested …

Cochinita Pibil

Cochinita Pibil

It was the best taco I had ever eaten. At the small taqueria in San Cristóbal de las Casas, the only filling was cochinita pibil: a day’s worth of suckling pig meat braised with smoked habanero chilies and served from a huge stainless steel vat. …

The modern Judas

The modern Judas

On Easter Sunday, Judas dolls are traditionally blown up in San Miguel de Allende. A dozen or so papier-mâché figures, now representing real-life “traitors” from recent history, first dangle above the assembled crowd in the town’s main square before being detonated one by one. When …